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"Todera" (Chinese Temple) Kofukuji and "Zen
Master Ingen"
Teramachi-dori is the street that runs along the base of Mount Kazagashira,and
takes its name from the many temples (J: tera) that stand side by side
along it. At around the center of the street in an expansive, generously
sized precinct is Kofukuji, a place that in former days was seen as a
piece of China in Japan. Known as the "red temple" by the citizens
of Nagasaki because of its vermilion Sanmon Gate, Kofukuji was the first
Obaku Zen temple in Japan. It was the first place where the founder Zen
Master Ingen stayed after
arriving from China,and was thereafter presided over by such Zen masters
as Mokusu Nyojo,who built the famed "Spectacles Bridge", and
Zen Master Itsunen (Ch: Yiran),who introduced a new style of Chinese painting
to Japan. As the place of origin of Obaku Zen in Japan and the sacred
ground upon which Zen Master Ingen first walked in this country, Kofukuji
occupies a unique place in history, and receives special protection by
Nagasaki Prefecture.
The origins of Kofukuji date to around 1620 (Genna 6), when merchants
from Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) China began to arrive in Nagasaki, and the
Chinese priest Shin'en (Ch: Zhen Yuanjestablished a shrine to pray for
safety in the perilous sea journey. Nagasaki in the early Edo preiod was
an international city in which adventurous merchants gathered and traded
their goods from Europe and the Asian continent, having recieved special
permission from the shogunal government (bakufu) in Edo (Tokyo). Chinese
merchants were by far the most numerous,approaching about 15% of the population
of the city. Chinese residents established the temples Kofukuji, Sofukuji,
Fukusaiji, and other Nagasaki "Todera"@(Chinese temples) based
on their regions of origin. Also during this period, as the Edo government
tightened its prohibitions on Christianity, Chinese residents who were
suspected of devotion to the Christian religion established temples in
increasing numbers to assert their allegiance to the Buddhist faith.
During the 200 years of the Tokugawa shogunate's "Closed Country"
(sakoku)policy, established in 1641, Nagasaki was the only port open to
international trade, and then only from China and the Netherlands. Citizens
of the port city were completely involved in the business of commerce,
bringing precious cultural objects and written materials into Japan. Chinese
ships were the most active participants in commerce during this period,
and Kofukuji prospered greatly under the patronage of such parishioners
as the Nanjing-based ship owners and Chinese trading houses based in Nagasaki.
Kofukuji occupied an enormous area filled with magnificent halls, and
thrived as a center for the practice of Zen among monks and the laity,
men and women.
Nagasaki was a special administrative district which fell under the direct
control of the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period; it was not part
of any domain or province. Shogunate-appointed officials and public censors
were placed in the city, but the
real power over international relations, policy, and trade was in the
hands of Nagasaki residents familiar with the city's international atmosphere
and terrain. Dutch and Chinese interpreters (tsuji)wielded particular
influence in international affairs; among the prominent parishioners of
Kofukuji were the family of Chinese interpreters, who supported the temple
over numerous generations. Chinese priests ceased to journey to Nagasaki
around the mid-1700s, and after Jikuan, the ninth abbot of Kofukuji, all
abbots up to the present 32nd abbot have been Japanese-born.
Nagasaki went through tremendous change from the late Edo period, through
the period of rapid modernization, the Sino-Japanese War, Russo-Japanese
War, and World War II. Kofukuji lost most of its Chinese parishioners
after the Second World War, when most Chinese residents in Nagasaki returned
to China, leaving only a few. Luckily, however, Kofukuji managed to escape
the damage of the atomic bomb even while much of Nagasaki burned, and
today it is still possible to savor the unique atmosphere of the ancient
"Todera".
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